The Anchor
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Run the end of your thread through the anchor hole.
(Some of the newer looms will have 2 holes. You will only use one. The second hole is for left handed people.)
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Tie a knot to secure the anchor.
The space between the two edges is your work space and is where the beads will be as you work
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The First Warp Thread
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Hold your loom with your index finger up. Wrap the thread up over the index finger, down and around the loom.
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Run the bobbin under the thread between the anchor and the index finger.
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Bring the bobbin around and begin pulling the thread into a half hitch.
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Pull the half Hitch tight against the loom.
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You will want to tie a good knot on the first warp thread to secure your work.
Run the bobbin over the thread, and bring it through the inside of the loom
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Bring the bobbin out and through the loop that formed
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Repeat again, coming up through the loom and over the thread.
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Bring the bobbin out and through the loop that formed
Give the first warp thread a good tug... better to double check the knot now. If it is loose , pull the thread tight again and repeat the knotting.
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The Warp Threads
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Hold your loom with your index finger up. Wrap the thread up over the index finger, down and around the loom.
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Run the bobbin under thread between the anchor and the index finger
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Bring the bobbin around and begin pulling the thread into a half hitch
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Bring each warp thread up to the edge of the loom. Do not make them too close together or too neat. It needs to be fairly loose spacing. Once you get your beads on, it will become more organized, but too little space will make your work hard to turn.
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Add on the desired number of warp threads. This will be one more than the number of beads you will be using. The warp threads create a "parking space" for each bead in each row.
Notice how the warps are not spaced evenly, this is how it should look.
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The Last Warp Thread
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After you have half hitched your last warp thread, you will want to tie a good knot... just like you did on the first one.
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Cut a length of thread from the bobbin(any length you are comfortable working with.)
Thread a needle onto the thread. Run your needle up under the last warp thread.
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Pull the thread up and form a loop. Run you needle through the loop, and pull thread tight.
Repeat again, running the needle under the last warp thread in the opposite direction.
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The First Row
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Turn the loom around, so the half hitches are at the top. Pinch the threads between your index and thumb.
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Pull the threads up until the half hitches line up against the edge of your workspace.
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String on the amount of beads you need. Run the needle under the warp threads to the opposite end of the loom. "Park" each bead in it's space and run the needle through to the other side. Make sure the thread will be laying on top of the warp threads.
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On the first row, you may want to do a few beads at a time.
The thread laying under and over the warp threads are called weft threads.
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When the first row is complete, push the beads up to line up with the edge of the work space.
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You will have gaps and spaces. This is a good thing! It means you will have enough "play" in your threads to turn your work easily.
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Pull the weft thread tight, to bring the beads close together.
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Once you have your beads in place, you will want to organize your warp threads. This is done by scooting the either left or right.
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Spread the warp threads out as far as the go, vaguely in a fan shape. They will line up as you work and be spaced to the sized bead you are using.
Sometimes I use a darning needle to manipulate the thread. You can easily lift the threads by wedging it under and lifting.
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