Cab tutorial

Gluing Down to Backing
	Use your preferred glue to glue your face cab down onto a piece of Lacy's Stiff Stuff that is larger than the face cab. I prefer an epoxy, but use what you like best and follow manufacturer's directions for application and drying. Place a weight down on top of the piece and allow glue to set.
Couching
	Couching is a nice way to bead along the surface of your cab. To begin you will thread 2 needles. The first with 2 yards of thread doubled and tied in a knot on the end. The second with 1 1/2 yards. Tie a knot on one end, leaving it as a single thread for working. Run up through the Stiff Stuff with the doubled
	Run up through the Stiff Stuff with the doubled thread where you want you row to start.
	Run the single thread up approximately 3 beads way from the other thread.
	String beads onto your doubled thread. String enough to almost go around the face cab. Hold the beads in place with your fingers as you work keeping them close together on the thread. Run the single thread down through the Stiff Stuff on the other side of the strung beads.
	Pull the single thread snug to the surface. This will secure... couch... your beads in place. Don't pull the tension so tight that it crimps the beads out of place, it is there just to secure the beads and the doubled thread into place.
	Work around the face cab, adding beads and couching as you go.
	When you reach the end, add enough beads to close the gap. run through the very first bead and down through the Stiff Stuff. Bring the doubled thread back up to the surface and begin another row.
	Add as many rows as you desire in the same fashion. Tie off your threads and trim the Stiff Stuff.
Backing Your Face Cab Pin
	Using and regular office type glue stick, glue a piece of ultra suede or leather to a second piece of Stiff Stuff. Lay you face cab on top of the layered backing.
	Trace the outline.
	Cut along the traced line.
	Trim the stiff stuff so it is slightly smaller than the suede backing.
	Lay the pin back down on the cab in the position where you want it to be. Draw a line around it. Make 2 vertical marks where you want the pin ends to stick out of the back.
	Use a sharp craft knife to cut along the vertical slits you made over the tracing of the pin back.
	Poke one end of the pin back through one of the slits.
	Poke the second end through the second slit. Position the pin where it is sitting evenly with the parts moving freely. Place a little glue between the pin back and the stiff stuff.
	Place more glue on the center of the backing.
	Position the backing onto the beaded pin front. Make sure the glue doesn't seep out to the edges for easier edging. Glue is difficult to piece with a needle. Let glue set according to manufacturer's directions. I prefer a fabric glue that is for setting rhinestones for this.
Picot Edging- first set
	Thread a needle with a single thread. Tie a knot on one end. Run up though the edge of the stiff stuff of the beaded pin.
	String on 3 seed beads and run up through the suede backing and the beaded stiff stuff. Note: The trimmed layer will not be used at all for the backing. This gives a better edge and forms an envelope around the layer of stiff stuff on the backing.
	Run back up the 3rd bead of the 3 seed beads just added.
Picot Edging- repetitive sets
	String on 2 beads and run through both layers of the pin.
	Run up through the second bead of the 2 beads just added.
	Cinch up tight.
	Repeat the repetitive sets all around the cab. Keep stitches sung and even.
Picot Edging- closing set
	String on 1 bead. Run down through the very first bead of edging and through both layers.
	Run back up through the first bead again. Tie off your thread.